In previous posts, we have highlighted the importance of eyebrows and all aspects must be taken into account in its design. In this article we will learn the techniques we can apply to correct eyebrow shape by tweazing your brows.
We already know that eyebrows require special attention because they are the basis of all corrections of the face, professional make up artists use many effects that create a transformation of the eyebrows.
The drawing of eyebrows should be calculated in an extremely precise way, almost to the millimeter, because the eyebrow can unbalance the face making it unharmonious.
We must remember that in my first post I explained that the eyebrow is made up of three parts where the thickness varies:
The beginning of the eyebrow, also called the ‘head’, should measure about 8mm of thickness (although naturally all eyebrows can have different dimensions)
The middle part of the eyebrow, also called the ‘heart’, should measure 5mm of thickness
The end of the eyebrow, should measure 1-2mm of thickness
Obviously we are talking about the ideal eyebrow, but this is the basis on which we use to reference the eyebrow on where to tweeze, although we must not forget that we will always be influenced by fashion and current trends (sometimes thinner and other times thicker) Ideally we must choose:
- The thickness
- The length
- The height point (arch)
- The direction
The techniques that allow us to modify the eyebrows are
- Tweeze the remaining hairs
- Fill in the eyebrows using make up or an eyebrow pencil in the correct colour
- Tint the eyebrows
Waxing- hair is depilated to correct the shape of the eyebrow
Hair restoration- small strokes are drawn following the direction of the hair using an eyebrow pencil using the correct colour
Shading- eye shadow can be used to contour and shape the eyebrow
Now we are going to study different ways to correct all the aspects we have previously looked at.
Thick eyebrows are recommended on high eyelids (i.e. when the distance between the edge of the eyelashes on the upper eyelid and the arch of the brow with the eyes open is bigger than the iris) The eyes should also be large enough, as small eyes with thick eyebrows will make the eyes seem smaller.
Thin eyebrows are suitable for thin faces and can give them a romantic air or accentuate it.
They create more space to be able to apply a more sophisticated make up.
Thin and discreet eyebrows must be recommended for heavy eyelids but must also be avoided when the eyes are too big or bulging.
TECHNIQUES APPLIED TO CORRECT THICKNESS
Correct a thin eyebrow: We use a pencil to shade and outline the brow
Correct a thick brow: First use hair removal then outline the eyebrow with shadow
The length of the eyebrow influences the oval shape, but can also shorten and widen the top of the face. You can calculate the length of the eyebrow using a brush.
These are only to be used as guidelines and not a fixed rule, because if the nostrils are very wide eyebrows can end up very separated and like wise if the nostrils are very narrow the eyebrows can end up to close together.
TECHNIQUES APPLIED FOR THE LENGTH
Lengthen a short eyebrow: we will use a pencil to outline the eyebrow
Shorten a long eyebrow: first remove the unwanted hair then outline with shadow
Descending lines should be avoided because they age the face and provide an expression of sadness.
Limiting the line of the eyebrows can transform the face; the horizontal line broadens the top of the eyebrow and the ascending and descending lines lengthen the eyebrow.
The line of the eyebrow can be changed thanks to hair removal and discreet use of eyebrow pencil.
TECHNIQUES APPLIED FOR DIRECTION
Raise a horizontal eyebrow: use hair removal and shading
How to choose the direction of the eyebrows:
- Horizontal lines
- Oblique lines
- More ascending lines
The line we choose for hair removal will transform the face, so we must be careful in choosing the line and not leaving it to chance.
The horizontal lines
They have a tendency to widen and expand the area.
It is necessary to avoid them with wide faces, especially when the upper face is wide of they have very prominent cheeks.
The ascending lines
They are considered to be the most aesthetic, but on the condition that they harmonize the whole face.
The lightly ascending lines are not corrective, but their form gives more value to the eyes by enlarging them.
Very ascending lines lengthen the face therefore we must be careful because they extend the lower part of the face.