Crucial factors to consider when choosing the desired shape of brow are the personality of the client, their tastes, their motivations and expectations for treatment. However it is the responsibility of the micropigmentation technician to make sure the client is aware of the limitations that exist when choosing the shape, colour and intensity of the eyebrows.
Although micropigmentation may intensify shape, colour and effects of the brow clients should always consider a more natural looking result rather than following current eyebrow fashion and trends. The result of micropigmentation of the eyebrows should seek to look natural and be harmonious with the client’s facial features.
There are many important variables to consider when choosing the design of the brow. The final design depends on the correct choice made during the design and pre draw process, as the eyebrows are primarily responsible for the expressions we show on our faces. Generally the eyebrow should follow a smooth line roughly an upward comma shape. The micropigmentation technician will study the line, shape, length, separation between the two eyebrows, eyebrow thickness, the separation from the eyes, and concentration of the hair and pigment of the eyebrows. For the eyebrows to have a natural look the ideal measurements should be that two thirds of the length of the eyebrow start from the inner brow towards the highest point which creates the arch of the eyebrow, the final third of the brow is from the highest point of the arch to the tail of the eyebrow.
Eyebrow arch height
The elevation point of the eyebrow should ideally coincide with the outer edge or slightly displaced to the outside of the iris. If you change the point of the arch you can create different optical effects to the eyebrows. Too far outside of the ideal point of the arch you can harden the expression of the client. Too far inward of the ideal point of the arch often leads to an unflattering shape creating a shaft eyebrow. The ideal height of the arch should be to follow the arch that is naturally apparent within the brow and for the tail of the eyebrow to rest on the same axis.
Relative to the eye, the space preserved between the eyebrow and the eye should be approximately the size of the client’s iris. If the preserved space is too close or too distant it can produce a change in expression. Also when the space between the two eyebrows is too close it creates an optical effect causing narrowing of the area. Likewise when they are too far apart the effect is the opposite, it creates an optical effect causing the eyes to look like they are too far apart.
Eyebrows to suit face shape
The eyebrows can never be valued as a separate element to the face as eyebrows are used to display expressions therefore the modifications to any of the characteristics mentioned above should follow recommendations to suit client’s facial contours.
Oval face- You can do almost all forms of eyebrows. The most beautiful and flattering shape is the one that achieves the highest proportion with the arch around 2/3.
Round face- It is recommended to raise the arch slightly higher and make more angular lines.
Square face- It is recommended to choose soft and slightly rounded lines to soften the face.
Elongated face- It is important that the line runs horizontally to shorten the face.
Triangular face- It is advisable to move the high point slightly outward, follow a horizontal line and slightly lengthen the brow.
Pentagonal face- It is advisable to take the high point slightly out to widen the forehead area.
EYEBROW APPLICATION TECHNIQUES
There are three main groups of techniques that technician’s use in the application of micropigmentation of the eyebrows including advanced and special effect techniques.
1) DESIGN TRANSFER
With these techniques we define the outline of the eyebrow with either lines or dots to use as reference points to create the new silhouette. The technician uses the design points to reference where to start the application of the stroke. The technician will work from head to tail starting from the bottom line creating fine short lines to join to the top line.
2) APPLICATION TECHNIQUES
There are different applications and techniques used to create different looks and effects to eyebrows.:-
- Hair strokes- These are curved lines with a distance between them creating separate hair strokes inside the skeleton of the eyebrow. It is performed starting from the head of the eyebrow working towards the tail. This technique can be used as filler within the eyebrow and can be combined with other applications.
- Bicolour hair strokes- These are curved lines with a shorter distance between the strokes using different colours within the eyebrow. This creates a natural effect similar to natural hair of the eyebrow.
- Powder- This is a compact structure where the full eyebrow is uniformly covered using different techniques creating a more defined powdered brow. Application starts from the head of the eyebrow working towards the tail.
3) ADVANCED TECHNIQUES WITH SPECIAL EFFECTS
The main purpose of these techniques is to create an optical effect, to rejuvenate or correct previous micropigmentation treatments in terms of shape of colour of the eyebrows.
- Tricolour hair strokes- This application is a succession of curved lines with different lengths of separation between them. Light, medium and dark colours are used with this application to help create a three dimensional effect. Each colour is performed in a separate step, inserting hair strokes using a darker colour, then using lighter colour hair strokes in the spaces in-between.
- Lifting effect- Highlighter is placed under the lower line of the eyebrow creating an optical illusion by raising the tail of the eyebrow.
- Camouflage effect I- This technique is used for correcting pigmented areas outside the eyebrows correct structure. The application is performed in two steps using two different techniques. Starting at the head of the eyebrow correction is done working towards the midpoint of the eyebrow then towards the tail.
- Camouflage effect II- This application creates an intense tribal eyebrow with a three dimensional effect using two colours applied using hair stroke technique. Application starts from the head of the eyebrow working towards the tail. Two treatment sessions is recommended.
- Combination brows- This application is a mixture of shading, hair by hair and lifting techniques. This combination of techniques requires two treatment sessions to complete
- Other combinations- There are several alternatives and applications that offer a mixture of traditional, advanced and special effect techniques. These treatments are often personalized according to the specific needs of each individual client