Shaded Liner / eyeshadow Permanent Makeup by Debbie Clifford.
This Permanent Makeup treatment is a lovely soft treatment, taking a lash enhancement or basic eyeliner to a new level!
We still need the basics of an eyeliner, so as long as you get good retention, you are ready to take your skills to the next level with this amazing technique!
STEP 1 – PREDRAWING
The predrawing is extremely important and for this an artistic eye is a complete necessity. No two eyes are the same and the angle you give one eyeliner won’t fall the same as the other. So we tweak each one eye so that at “speaking distance” the eyeliners look symmetrical.
The predrawing is done with pigment (using our Goldeneye mix and draw sticks). First designing the eyeliner and then marking the edges of the eyeshadow / shade or blend (see image above). You can smudge the pigment with a cotton bud to show the client an idea of what the shading might look like.
STEP 2 – DESIGN TRANSFER
Once we and the client are 100% happy with the shape and design we can start the design transfer. For this we use a singe needle.
Low machine speed and very light pressure, etch in the eyeliner, the outline of the shadow area and the beginning of the shading.
Once the template is set we do not change it during the treatment. There might be slight swelling during the procedure and if we start compensating for this the final result will not be even.
STEP 3 – THE EYELINER
I like to use a 3micro needle, especially for the lash enhancement. The skin in the lash area is tougher than the skin on the eyelid so machine speed can be a little higher and pressure a little stronger than just feeling the vibration in the skin.
We don’t need the sharp, perfect edge to the top of the eyeliner as we want to blend this into the shaded area. So as long as we fill the eyeliner completely we will have it matched on both sides equally.
STEP 4 – THE SHADE
Using very low machine power and fast hand movement to get a pixel effect, we use a “whip shade” or “cat scratch” technique to start the shading. We shade in different directions. From the outer edge towards the inner eye and from the eyeliner upwards.
Shading is all about superficial layering. The basic eyeliner will remain in the skin as where as the shading is designed to fade over time. So be careful if you use different fantasy colours, these may contain high levels of titanium dioxide.
I love black for an eyeliner and a mixture of blacks and browns for the shading. On Lucy, our stunning model, I used Goldeneye Coloressense Real Black 290 with a couple of drops of Skin Top. This is an oil-based product that helps to calm the skin while we are doing the treatment. Dilution of the pigment is not neccesary when machine speed and hand speed are on point and our pressure is even.
The stretch is really important during an eyeliner and shading treatment. The skin must be stretched like a drum, with no wrinkles in it at all.
There is lots of wiping the eye during this treatment. When we are layering we do not want the repeat areas without looking to see how the pigment is taking first.
Goldeneye WASH is an antibacterial cleanser, specially designed for micropigmentation. Its a concentrate that is diluted with sterile water.
We also use PUSH during the treatment which helps with retention, calms the skin and prolongs the effect of your numbing creams. You can use this after every pass if you want, applied with a cotton bud. It really helps with the discomfort of the wiping as well.
I like to finish around 90% of the first eye and then re-apply numbing cream before starting the second eye.
Always stay within the guidelines that you put in place during the design transfer at the beginning.
STEP 5 – FINAL CHECK AND TWEAKS
Finally after both eyes are 90% complete, it’s time to look carefully at any weak areas (you can use our Pigment Detector) and choose either a #3micro to fill in the gap in the lashes or a single needle for weaker areas in the shading.
Remember that every time the needle is in the skin we wan to deposit pigment. So if for some reason this isn’t happening you need to change something, angle, handspeed, machine speed or your needle.